Thursday, September 16, 2010

Mui Ne waves: Enough to satisfy the surfer inside

Mui Ne is on the map as an Asian kite surfing mecca, but there’s a few waves left over for longboarders - Photo: Kinh Luan
Happy to say, I had a good surf recently in Mui Ne. This time of year there’s no rideable waves on the back beach there but I was told there’s some small swells on the front beach.

These swells last until October when the wind changes and favors early morning waves on the back beach.

I actually rode a monstrous sail board – well over ten foot long, almost too wide too paddle – and hard to turn. But what it lacked in maneuverability it made up in sheer speed and ease to get on the wave. As a result I hardly missed a single one that I went for and caught dozens of little two foot waves right to the beach.

Despite the sad amount of plastic bags in the water it was great to get wet and have a play on the board. I found these waves on a strip of beach near the terraces where the all the fishing boats dock at the northern end of the tourist strip. There is a decent beach there and I was able to get some quite long rides and even show a few Vietnamese teenagers how to do it – standing up on a surfboard the size of an oil tanker is not hard - even for beginners. They loved it.

I surfed early in the morning thinking that the waves would get blown out, so I better get in early. But it didn’t happen; I had a surf in the morning, and again in the afternoon, both high tide and low tide were ok.

As a keen longboarder from the Gold Coast in Australia, when I came to Vietnam I had no information about whether or not there was surf here so I left my eight footer in  a mate’s shed.

A few months after I arrived in 2007, I body-surfed some two foot waves on a sandbank in Vung Tau and judged it to be quite acceptable for a longboard. Unfortunately the closest thing to a malibu for hire on the beach was a tire tube or a cocktail, so the idea was shelved for a while until I scored a board off a mate of mine, who told me he’d had a few waves at Long Hai.

As it turns out there’s quite a history of surfing in Vung Tau, going back about 40 years and there’s even a surf shack up there and an online surf report called Vung Tau Beach Club on the Globalsurfers website. What’s great about Vung Tau is it is easy to get to on the hydrofoil with the surfboard. From Saigon I can go there for a morning surf and be back in the afternoon. A few crabs, a few waves and I’m a happy chappy.

Mui Ne is not so easy to get to. It’s only 200km but it’s not Australia so there’s no way you can do it in two hours. The quickest I could manage was four and a half hours on the motorbike. There are a few decent long boards for rent at Jibes restaurant but I didn’t see any motorbikes for rent with board racks like you can get in Bali, so it’s got to be taxis or brave the wind on the back of a xe om with a nine footer poking out front and back.

Another way to get there that I was recommended by someone – head to Mien Dong bus station in Binh Thanh district at about 3 a.m. (you can chuck the board in the luggage compartment underneath). Catch a bus and wake up in Mui Ne. It’s probably a bit safer than fanging a 100cc step-through motorbike along Hanoi Highway and has the added advantage of being able to take your own board.

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The Deck on Saigon River

The Deck restaurant in An Phu specializes in Pan Asian cuisine and the freshest Vietnamese produce - Photo: Khanh Van
The Deck restaurant cocktail bar with sweeping views of the Saigon River is in An Phu area of District 2, minutes from the heart of HCMC.

The main feature of the restaurant, the open deck designed by a bare-footed Australian from Perth, Lawson Johnston, has an electric retractable roof to cope with the Saigon downpours.

Johnson’s wife Anna Craven, consultant with law firm Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, owns and runs the restaurant.

 The entry is at the end of the bamboo lined Nguyen U Di Street. The Aussie deck style combines well with earthenware jars full of lotuses and views of coconut palm clad river banks.

The Deck specializes in Pan Asian cuisine and the freshest Vietnamese produce and if you just want a drink it is a great place to watch the sunset with a long bar that stretches from inside to outdoors.

Chefs at The Deck source their seafood from Phu Quoc Island and Nha Trang, and vegetables from the upland city of Dalat.

Happy hour is from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays. And it’s open from 8:30am to midnight.

Johnson also runs an eco-resort called Mango Bay on Phu Quoc Island, a famous tourist destination off the southern province of Kien Giang.

He says the stunning and environmental friendly natural fibers available in Vietnam have inspired him to design a range of contemporary lounge furniture that has become popular with restaurateurs, resort owners and distributors.

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The Deck on Saigon River

The Deck restaurant in An Phu specializes in Pan Asian cuisine and the freshest Vietnamese produce - Photo: Khanh Van
The Deck restaurant cocktail bar with sweeping views of the Saigon River is in An Phu area of District 2, minutes from the heart of HCMC.

The main feature of the restaurant, the open deck designed by a bare-footed Australian from Perth, Lawson Johnston, has an electric retractable roof to cope with the Saigon downpours.

Johnson’s wife Anna Craven, consultant with law firm Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, owns and runs the restaurant.

 The entry is at the end of the bamboo lined Nguyen U Di Street. The Aussie deck style combines well with earthenware jars full of lotuses and views of coconut palm clad river banks.

The Deck specializes in Pan Asian cuisine and the freshest Vietnamese produce and if you just want a drink it is a great place to watch the sunset with a long bar that stretches from inside to outdoors.

Chefs at The Deck source their seafood from Phu Quoc Island and Nha Trang, and vegetables from the upland city of Dalat.

Happy hour is from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays. And it’s open from 8:30am to midnight.

Johnson also runs an eco-resort called Mango Bay on Phu Quoc Island, a famous tourist destination off the southern province of Kien Giang.

He says the stunning and environmental friendly natural fibers available in Vietnam have inspired him to design a range of contemporary lounge furniture that has become popular with restaurateurs, resort owners and distributors.

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Quy Nhon: Land of tragic love and poetry

Stone egg beach with Quy Nhon City in the background
Ghenh Rang, 3km south of the poetic Quy Nhon City, has some of the most fantastic vermilion twilight skies in the country.

From the entrance for a fee of VND6,000, you can head down the slope for 150 meters to get to the Ghenh Rang Tourist Area.

The grave of poet Han Mac Tu who was inspired by the landscapes of Quy Nhon - Photos: Dang Hoang Tham
The path to Ghenh Rang has flowers like wild orchids, acacias and daisies. After descending the mossy stone steps, Ghenh Rang Beach will appear.

When the water is calm and clear, you can see the pebbles on the bottom, which is why people also call the beach Bai Da Trung (Stone Egg Beach). 

The beach is scattered with big rocks. When the wind starts to chop up the sea, the waves crash on the rocks sending up clouds of spray.  A fresh water stream from springs in the hills comes out between the rocks.

Especially striking on the beach are giant rocks - one looks like a human face, another like a lion heading out to the sea. A large rock is named Vong Phu (Waiting for her Husband).

Near the stony beach is Queen Beach where Queen Nam Phuong, wife of Bao Dai King, the last king of Vietnam, would bath and relax in the early 19th century.

The path to Ghenh Rang passes by the modest grave of poet Han Mac Tu. The grave lies at the mountain’s foot. Tourists should not forget to burn incense for the sensitive poet who suffered leprosy alone. Visitors may feel pity for the miserable life of this talented poet. Unlike the final years of his life, the grave all the year round is drenched in sunlight, clouds, winds, moonlight and the murmurs of the sea.

The site is associated with a folklore about a love of a beautiful girl for a poor village boy. But they are separated when an evil mandarin seeks to marry her and orders the boy go to war. The girl runs away to Vung Chua Mountain but the evil mandarin and his henchmen follow her, and almost catch her, except a monsoon causes the mountain to crack open, creating a stream called Suoi Tien (Fairy Stream).

The boy crosses the sea to find his true love and finally they meet and vanish in the stream.

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Thanh Hoa to build mini Lam Kinh with VND114 bil.

The construction of a mini version of VND114.8 billion Lam Kinh Historical Relic in Xuan Lam Commune has been approved by authorities in Thanh Hoa Province, reports VietnamPlus.

The project will mark the 1,000th anniversary of Thang Long-Hanoi.

Over the next five years, the sanctum area of the original Lam Kinh will also be restored to its former beauty during Le Trung Hung and Le dynasties.

The restoration will use precious wood and meticulous carvings of dragon images and patterns.

For nearly 600 years, Lam Kinh historical relic has been synonymous with national hero Le Loi, the leader of the resounding Lam Son uprising. Construction of Lam King began in 1433, immediately following the death of King Le Thai To, the first ruler of the Le Dynasty. Building a second capital, with monuments and mausoleums in Lam Son strengthened the loyalty of the people to the King and the reigning family.

Along with mausoleums, the Le Dynasty also built three temples in Lam Kinh. The Wind and Cloud temple was used to pray for favorable weather for the harvests. The second was for Society, where wishes for a wealthy life were made. The third, South Communion, was where Kings reported and expressed their gratitude to the heavens.

Through the changing times, the relics of Lam Kinh tell the history of Vietnam.

Wars and time have destroyed most of the magnificent architecture. The only things that can remind us of the splendor of the former capital are the moss grown terraces and stone pillars.

The project hopes to honor the significance of the sanctuary, making it a tourist attraction and festival site.

This year, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism will collaborate with local authorities to host Lam Kinh Festival on September 28-30 to mark 592 years since the Lam Son Revolution, 582 years since Le Thai To’s enthronement, and 577 years since the death of Le Loi King.

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Thanh Hoa to build mini Lam Kinh with VND114 bil.

The construction of a mini version of VND114.8 billion Lam Kinh Historical Relic in Xuan Lam Commune has been approved by authorities in Thanh Hoa Province, reports VietnamPlus.

The project will mark the 1,000th anniversary of Thang Long-Hanoi.

Over the next five years, the sanctum area of the original Lam Kinh will also be restored to its former beauty during Le Trung Hung and Le dynasties.

The restoration will use precious wood and meticulous carvings of dragon images and patterns.

For nearly 600 years, Lam Kinh historical relic has been synonymous with national hero Le Loi, the leader of the resounding Lam Son uprising. Construction of Lam King began in 1433, immediately following the death of King Le Thai To, the first ruler of the Le Dynasty. Building a second capital, with monuments and mausoleums in Lam Son strengthened the loyalty of the people to the King and the reigning family.

Along with mausoleums, the Le Dynasty also built three temples in Lam Kinh. The Wind and Cloud temple was used to pray for favorable weather for the harvests. The second was for Society, where wishes for a wealthy life were made. The third, South Communion, was where Kings reported and expressed their gratitude to the heavens.

Through the changing times, the relics of Lam Kinh tell the history of Vietnam.

Wars and time have destroyed most of the magnificent architecture. The only things that can remind us of the splendor of the former capital are the moss grown terraces and stone pillars.

The project hopes to honor the significance of the sanctuary, making it a tourist attraction and festival site.

This year, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism will collaborate with local authorities to host Lam Kinh Festival on September 28-30 to mark 592 years since the Lam Son Revolution, 582 years since Le Thai To’s enthronement, and 577 years since the death of Le Loi King.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Thanh Hoa to build mini Lam Kinh with VND114 bil.

The construction of a mini version of VND114.8 billion Lam Kinh Historical Relic in Xuan Lam Commune has been approved by authorities in Thanh Hoa Province, reports VietnamPlus.

The project will mark the 1,000th anniversary of Thang Long-Hanoi.

Over the next five years, the sanctum area of the original Lam Kinh will also be restored to its former beauty during Le Trung Hung and Le dynasties.

The restoration will use precious wood and meticulous carvings of dragon images and patterns.

For nearly 600 years, Lam Kinh historical relic has been synonymous with national hero Le Loi, the leader of the resounding Lam Son uprising. Construction of Lam King began in 1433, immediately following the death of King Le Thai To, the first ruler of the Le Dynasty. Building a second capital, with monuments and mausoleums in Lam Son strengthened the loyalty of the people to the King and the reigning family.

Along with mausoleums, the Le Dynasty also built three temples in Lam Kinh. The Wind and Cloud temple was used to pray for favorable weather for the harvests. The second was for Society, where wishes for a wealthy life were made. The third, South Communion, was where Kings reported and expressed their gratitude to the heavens.

Through the changing times, the relics of Lam Kinh tell the history of Vietnam.

Wars and time have destroyed most of the magnificent architecture. The only things that can remind us of the splendor of the former capital are the moss grown terraces and stone pillars.

The project hopes to honor the significance of the sanctuary, making it a tourist attraction and festival site.

This year, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism will collaborate with local authorities to host Lam Kinh Festival on September 28-30 to mark 592 years since the Lam Son Revolution, 582 years since Le Thai To’s enthronement, and 577 years since the death of Le Loi King.

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