Built to last

The Ho Dynasty’s extremely short tenure is marked by long-standing achievements including a citadel that still stands, six centuries later

The southern entrance of the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407)’s citadel with three gates in Thanh Hoa Province

The Ho Dynasty was founded in 1400 after Ho Quy Ly (1336-1407), the highest-ranking general of the Tran Dynasty, dethroned King Tran Thieu De and declared himself the new emperor. However, his reign proved short-lived when China’s Ming Dynasty invaded and took over the country in 1407.

Although Ly has been heavily criticized for overthrowing the Tran Dynasty and letting China dominate the country again after 500 years of independence, several reforms that he initiated during his eight-year reign have stood the test of time, including the circulation of paper money.

He is also said to have brought new ideas to the construction of the Tay Do (Western Capital) citadel, in present-day Thanh Hoa Province, where he placed the central government.

The citadel is considered a “miracle of labor”, as it was built manually in just three months. After more than 600 years, the monument still stands, and the mystery of how it was built still endures.

Built with green block granite, the citadel was trapezoidal while other citadels until then were built of bricks and clay earth and bricks and were hexagon shaped.

GETTING THERE

By motorbike or car: From Thanh Hoa Town, go northeast along the National Way No. 45 for about 43 kilometers. Or, from Ha Trung District, go along National Way No. 217 to Vinh Loc District which is about 20 kilometers away. By bus: Buses to the citadel are available on both the national ways from Thanh Hoa Town. Ticket prices: VND10,000 (US$0.51) each person. For accommodation: Tay Ho Hotel (Phone: 037.352 2444) – Vinh Loc District’s Guest House (Mobile: Mr. Vu Manh Hien 091 209 3569) To Thanh Hoa Town: A four-hour train journey from the Hanoi railway station; and you can get there by car, bus or even motorbike on National Highway No.1. Round stones believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks to build the citadel hundreds of years ago

The rocks, some of which are 1.3 meters high and 1.59 meters wide, were brought from many places by road or by river. How the work was done remains a mystery.

The citadel has an average height of between five and six meters, with some points reaching ten meters. Its north-south and east-west lengths are 870.5 meters 883.5 meters respectively. It has entrances on all sides, but the main one in the south, with the biggest of its three grates stretching 5.82 meters wide.

Historic documents show that Ly ordered that the citadel be built in 1397, and then coerced Kinh Tran Dieu De to move the capital from Thang Long (now Hanoi).

Three years later, he dethroned the king and set up his own court at the citadel, which has been praised by historians for its good geographical location, as it is backed by three mountains and has two rivers flowing through it.

Inside the citadel there once were palaces comparable to Thang Long’s, but all of them were abandoned and destroyed when Ly was captured and taken prisoner by Ming troops.

In recent years, the old citadel has been opened to tourists who can either make it a destination on its own or as part of a package tour that links different destinations, like Sam Son – Ho Dynasty citadel – Cam Luong Spring – Lam Kinh.

Among the interesting artifacts at the citadel are round stones that are believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks hundreds of years ago.

As at other Vietnamese destinations, local culinary specialties are on offer. In Vinh Loc District, where the citadel is located, che lam and banh rang bua - different varieties of rice cake, are worth trying.

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Built to last

The Ho Dynasty’s extremely short tenure is marked by long-standing achievements including a citadel that still stands, six centuries later

The southern entrance of the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407)’s citadel with three gates in Thanh Hoa Province

The Ho Dynasty was founded in 1400 after Ho Quy Ly (1336-1407), the highest-ranking general of the Tran Dynasty, dethroned King Tran Thieu De and declared himself the new emperor. However, his reign proved short-lived when China’s Ming Dynasty invaded and took over the country in 1407.

Although Ly has been heavily criticized for overthrowing the Tran Dynasty and letting China dominate the country again after 500 years of independence, several reforms that he initiated during his eight-year reign have stood the test of time, including the circulation of paper money.

He is also said to have brought new ideas to the construction of the Tay Do (Western Capital) citadel, in present-day Thanh Hoa Province, where he placed the central government.

The citadel is considered a “miracle of labor”, as it was built manually in just three months. After more than 600 years, the monument still stands, and the mystery of how it was built still endures.

Built with green block granite, the citadel was trapezoidal while other citadels until then were built of bricks and clay earth and bricks and were hexagon shaped.

GETTING THERE

By motorbike or car: From Thanh Hoa Town, go northeast along the National Way No. 45 for about 43 kilometers. Or, from Ha Trung District, go along National Way No. 217 to Vinh Loc District which is about 20 kilometers away. By bus: Buses to the citadel are available on both the national ways from Thanh Hoa Town. Ticket prices: VND10,000 (US$0.51) each person. For accommodation: Tay Ho Hotel (Phone: 037.352 2444) – Vinh Loc District’s Guest House (Mobile: Mr. Vu Manh Hien 091 209 3569) To Thanh Hoa Town: A four-hour train journey from the Hanoi railway station; and you can get there by car, bus or even motorbike on National Highway No.1. Round stones believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks to build the citadel hundreds of years ago

The rocks, some of which are 1.3 meters high and 1.59 meters wide, were brought from many places by road or by river. How the work was done remains a mystery.

The citadel has an average height of between five and six meters, with some points reaching ten meters. Its north-south and east-west lengths are 870.5 meters 883.5 meters respectively. It has entrances on all sides, but the main one in the south, with the biggest of its three grates stretching 5.82 meters wide.

Historic documents show that Ly ordered that the citadel be built in 1397, and then coerced Kinh Tran Dieu De to move the capital from Thang Long (now Hanoi).

Three years later, he dethroned the king and set up his own court at the citadel, which has been praised by historians for its good geographical location, as it is backed by three mountains and has two rivers flowing through it.

Inside the citadel there once were palaces comparable to Thang Long’s, but all of them were abandoned and destroyed when Ly was captured and taken prisoner by Ming troops.

In recent years, the old citadel has been opened to tourists who can either make it a destination on its own or as part of a package tour that links different destinations, like Sam Son – Ho Dynasty citadel – Cam Luong Spring – Lam Kinh.

Among the interesting artifacts at the citadel are round stones that are believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks hundreds of years ago.

As at other Vietnamese destinations, local culinary specialties are on offer. In Vinh Loc District, where the citadel is located, che lam and banh rang bua - different varieties of rice cake, are worth trying.

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Built to last

The Ho Dynasty’s extremely short tenure is marked by long-standing achievements including a citadel that still stands, six centuries later

The southern entrance of the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407)’s citadel with three gates in Thanh Hoa Province

The Ho Dynasty was founded in 1400 after Ho Quy Ly (1336-1407), the highest-ranking general of the Tran Dynasty, dethroned King Tran Thieu De and declared himself the new emperor. However, his reign proved short-lived when China’s Ming Dynasty invaded and took over the country in 1407.

Although Ly has been heavily criticized for overthrowing the Tran Dynasty and letting China dominate the country again after 500 years of independence, several reforms that he initiated during his eight-year reign have stood the test of time, including the circulation of paper money.

He is also said to have brought new ideas to the construction of the Tay Do (Western Capital) citadel, in present-day Thanh Hoa Province, where he placed the central government.

The citadel is considered a “miracle of labor”, as it was built manually in just three months. After more than 600 years, the monument still stands, and the mystery of how it was built still endures.

Built with green block granite, the citadel was trapezoidal while other citadels until then were built of bricks and clay earth and bricks and were hexagon shaped.

GETTING THERE

By motorbike or car: From Thanh Hoa Town, go northeast along the National Way No. 45 for about 43 kilometers. Or, from Ha Trung District, go along National Way No. 217 to Vinh Loc District which is about 20 kilometers away. By bus: Buses to the citadel are available on both the national ways from Thanh Hoa Town. Ticket prices: VND10,000 (US$0.51) each person. For accommodation: Tay Ho Hotel (Phone: 037.352 2444) – Vinh Loc District’s Guest House (Mobile: Mr. Vu Manh Hien 091 209 3569) To Thanh Hoa Town: A four-hour train journey from the Hanoi railway station; and you can get there by car, bus or even motorbike on National Highway No.1. Round stones believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks to build the citadel hundreds of years ago

The rocks, some of which are 1.3 meters high and 1.59 meters wide, were brought from many places by road or by river. How the work was done remains a mystery.

The citadel has an average height of between five and six meters, with some points reaching ten meters. Its north-south and east-west lengths are 870.5 meters 883.5 meters respectively. It has entrances on all sides, but the main one in the south, with the biggest of its three grates stretching 5.82 meters wide.

Historic documents show that Ly ordered that the citadel be built in 1397, and then coerced Kinh Tran Dieu De to move the capital from Thang Long (now Hanoi).

Three years later, he dethroned the king and set up his own court at the citadel, which has been praised by historians for its good geographical location, as it is backed by three mountains and has two rivers flowing through it.

Inside the citadel there once were palaces comparable to Thang Long’s, but all of them were abandoned and destroyed when Ly was captured and taken prisoner by Ming troops.

In recent years, the old citadel has been opened to tourists who can either make it a destination on its own or as part of a package tour that links different destinations, like Sam Son – Ho Dynasty citadel – Cam Luong Spring – Lam Kinh.

Among the interesting artifacts at the citadel are round stones that are believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks hundreds of years ago.

As at other Vietnamese destinations, local culinary specialties are on offer. In Vinh Loc District, where the citadel is located, che lam and banh rang bua - different varieties of rice cake, are worth trying.

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Village works hard to remain in the past

Seven years after Duong Lam Village was recognized as a national heritage site, its authorities say they have not slackened efforts to preserve its centuries-old houses and relics.

Pham Hung Son, head of Duong Lam Ancient Village Preservation Committee, said they are considering a plan to build a 10- hectare relocation center for part of the village’s nearly 10,000 residents.

“We want to protect the space and the communal feeling of this ancient village,” Son said on the sidelines of a conference in Son Tay Town discussing ways to promote Duong Lam’s tourism potential.

Located about 50km west of Hanoi, Duong Lam is considered one of the oldest villages in Vietnam with a history that is said to date back more 1,200 years.

Most of the village’s traditional features have survived the ravages of war-time, and many of its shrines, communal halls, streets and trees give the place an authenticity that is probably unmatched elsewhere.

So far, ten of the ancient houses have received national recognition and nearly 1,000 traditional houses await more preservation efforts.

However, recent visitors have found traditional houses being replaced by the typical three-to-four storey matchbox houses found throughout the country, especially in urban and semi-urban areas.

Shimada Toshio, head of Architectural History at the Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties in Japan, said it’s important that the village continues preserving its space and communal feelings rather than focusing on protecting each house.

Since 2003, Toshio and other Japanese experts and volunteers have been visiting the village and advising local residents and authorities about preserving the village’s unique characterisitics.

In 2006, they put together a report titled “Hamlet survey report, Duong Lam Village” which presented part of the results of cooperative efforts by the Vietnamese and Japanese governments to conserve cultural heritages in Vietnam.

Toshio said it was important to maintain traditional architectural features. Residents should also be discouraged from over-using modern construction materials while renovating their homes, he said.

Tomoda Hiromichi, another expert in heritage management from Showa University, said efforts should also be put into reviving the intangible cultural values of the village, which include maintaining the traditional festivals, folk games, traditional clothes and dishes.

Many long-term residents have taken to the conservation efforts with enthusiasm. Ten generations of 54-year-old Ha Nguyen Huyen’s family have resided in the village.

Huyen used to earn a living by selling peanut sauce. Now, the family frequently hosts groups of visitors who bring in additional income that helps the family repair and maintain their traditional house.

“We know we have a mission to protect these houses and we will not make the same mistake of losing these treasures like many other parts of the country,” he said.

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Basking in the unspoilt wild of tranquil Quan Son Lake

Quan Son Lake, with its many small islands surrounded by forests
and hundreds of limestone peaks, retains its wild and tranquil beauty as
an idyllic out-of-the-way picnic spot in My Duc District, 50km from
central Hanoi.

The lake is considered a small Ha Long Bay on land.

Passing the East Bridge, visitors reach a wharf where, for only
VND60,000 (3 USD), they can be taken around the 850ha lake area by an
enthusiastic boatwomen.

The interesting tour gives
tourists a chance to behold the captivating scenery and enjoy the fresh
air. The site is also the home of many varieties of birds, including the
white egret.

During the trip, tourists will also see
unique white flowers floating on the surface of the lake. It's a strange
plant native to the lake, with leaves as round as the moon and blossoms
shaped like starfish.

In Quan Son, there are many
wonderful destinations, including Trau Trang (White Buffalo) Mountain,
Su Tu (Lion) Island, Doc Lap Island, Voi Phuc (Kneeling Elephant) Hill
and Hoa Qua Son (Flowers and Fruits Hill), each with its own natural
attractions.

The area is also famous for Linh Son and Ngoc
Long caves, which are not large but are dramatic, with stalactites and
stalagmites in various shapes of eagles, dragons, phoenix, unicorns and
tortoises. Tourists who arrive in the rainy season in June and July may
not have a chance to visit the caves, because the water level rises.

But in this season, waterfalls run down into the lake from the high
mountains, creating white spumes that add to the splendid scenery.

After the boat tour, a rest on the islands is suggested, where
stilt-houses serve as places to stop for a picnic. Visitors can bring
meals from home or ask the ferrywomen to buy food for a delectable
midday feast. Local specialities include chicken and goat raised on the
island, as well as fish, crab and snails from the lake.

Standing on the shore of Quan Son Lake, visitors marvel at the
magnificent and peaceful environment, with imposing cliffs overlooking
the green water and flocks of white egrets leisurely stretching their
wings.

From October to March, Voi (Elephant) Valley – the
bird watching point in Quan Son – is especially appealing, with a great
number of species flocking to build nests and shelters.

There are also some pagodas in Quan Son, such as Cao and Ham Yen.
However, Linh Son Pagoda, built during the Mac dynasty in the 16th
century, is located at the foot of the mountain near Linh Son Cave
and reflects on the surface of the lake.

About 20 rowboats and several motor boats are available at the lake to serve tourists, Huyen said./.

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Basking in the unspoilt wild of tranquil Quan Son Lake

by Minh Thu

Still waters: Travelling by boat is the best way to tour the islands and passages in the lake. — VNS Photos Minh Thu Blooming: Lotus on Quan Son Lake, which is also home to many different types of bird species.

Quan Son Lake, with its many small is-lands surrounded by forests and hundreds of limestone peaks, retains its wild and tranquil beauty as an idyllic out-of-the-way picnic spot in My Duc District, 50km from central Ha Noi.

The lake is considered a small Ha Long Bay on land.

Passing the East Bridge, visitors reach a wharf where, for only VND60,000 (US$3), they can be taken around the 850ha lake area by an enthusiastic boatwomen.

The interesting tour gives tourists a chance to behold the captivating scenery and enjoy the fresh air. The site is also the home of many varieties of birds, including the white egret.

During the trip, tourists will also see unique white flowers floating on the surface of the lake. It's a strange plant native to the lake, with leaves as round as the moon and blossoms shaped like starfish.

Our boatwoman, Ngo Thi Huyen, told us a story about this flower. It was once called hoa tien si (scholar's flower) because, in the old days, poor students in the region couldn't afford to buy paper to study. They often sat at the lakeside, wrote on the plant's leaves, and studied under the moonlight in the hope of passing examinations. When they were successful and became scholars, the plant was renamed in tribute.

In Quan Son, there are many wonderful destinations, including Trau Trang (White Buffalo) Mountain, Su Tu (Lion) Island, Doc Lap Island, Voi Phuc (Kneeling Elephant) Hill and Hoa Qua Son (Flowers and Fruits Hill), each with its own natural attractions.

The area is also famous for Linh Son and Ngoc Long caves, which are not large but are dramatic, with stalactites and stalagmites in various shapes of eagles, dragons, phoenix, unicorns and tortoises. Tourists who arrive in the rainy season in June and July may not have a chance to visit the caves, because the water level rises.

But in this season, waterfalls run down into the lake from the high mountains, creating white spumes that add to the splendid scenery.

After the boat tour, a rest on the islands is suggested, where stilt-houses serve as places to stop for a picnic. Visitors can bring meals from home or ask the ferrywomen to buy food for a delectable midday feast. Local specialities include chicken and goat raised on the island, as well as fish, crab and snails from the lake.

Standing on the shore of Quan Son Lake, visitors marvel at the magnificent and peaceful environment, with imposing cliffs overlooking the green water and flocks of white egrets leisurely stretching their wings.

From October to March, Voi (Elephant) Valley – the bird watching point in Quan Son – is especially appealing, with a great number of species flocking to build nests and shelters.

Next to the valley, Huyen, our boatwoman, led us to an area filled with lotus. She said that we are so lucky to visit this place while the lotus were in bloom. The boat runs slowly through the kingdom of lotus, hindered by roots and sprigs of flowers and leaves. We were charmed by the perfume of the blossoms. Huyen suggested that we pick a leaf and use it as an umbrella to shade us from the sun. Because there were plenty of flowers, we were allowed to pluck a small bunch to bring home.

There are also some pagodas in Quan Son, such as Cao and Ham Yen. However, Linh Son Pagoda, built during the Mac dynasty in the 16th century, is located at the foot of the mountain near Linh Son Cave and reflects on the surface of the lake.

About 20 rowboats and several motor boats are available at the lake to serve tourists, Huyen said. — VNS

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Coming round mountains to Tay Bac

Me Pi Leng pass through the limestone mountains in Ha Giang Province

Tay Bac, the mountainous region in the northwest of Vietnam, is famous for beautiful terraced fields, colorful love markets, magnificent mountains and valleys. The terrain is fascinating for tourists who can discover many riddles of nature and indigenous cultures. The spectacular hillside-hugging road to the northern province of Ha Giang has a few hair-raising turns but the marvelous landscape is irresistible for nature lovers and adventurers.

Ethnic kids carry water large distances in the dry season

I came to Meo Vac, a mountainous district in Ha Giang Province where tourists can visit Khau Vai love market, in the late afternoon. The topography is limestone mountains that impose over the poetic Nho Que river running through.

The love market often opens on the nights of 26th and 27th days of the lunar month. Shops trade till after midnight and local residents also stay up late. Their life rhythm is slow; the market is busy but I still sense a tranquility of there that is different to the markets in lowland regions.

Women carry firewood to Dong Van District in late afternoon - Photos: Lam Van Son

In contrast, Meo Vac market in the morning is rather quiet with dozens of ethnic women standing around with wooden packs, filled with vegetables and other agricultural products on their back. Buyers take a look and handle the produce before they start to bargain. The market doesn’t stay open long.

Leaving Meo Vac, I continued the journey to conquer Ma Pi Leng Mountain. I have traveled through many Highland passes, but I felt a bit giddy at Ma Pi Leng, the king of all mountain passes in Vietnam.

Ma Pi Leng is located on the border of Ha Giang Township and Dong Van and Meo Vac districts. The road runs round the sides of black limestone mountains, which are typical features of Dong Van Plateau. Wall-like rocks of all shapes also beautify the pass between Dong Van Town and Lung Phin Commune. The Nho Que River adds the finishing touch to nature’s masterpiece.

In the dry season, ethnic people have to carry water large distances. I felt touched to see their hardship.

The next stop is conquering Lung Cu Mountain in Dong Van Plateau. It is in Lung Cu Commune, which is about 1,600 meters above sea level. On the peak of the mountain is a flagpole about 30 meters tall.

From the top, tourists can see the terraced fields and lakes below. It was breath-taking. I felt a sense of awe that I cannot forget.

Then I arrived at Dong Van District near sunset. Dong Van, about 155 kilometers from Ha Giang Commune, is the most developed district among the ethnic districts in Ha Giang.

Dong Van is famous with old quarters, old markets, especially with its name meaning a plateau of limestone. Dong Van’s old quarter is different from Hoi An ancient town as most of houses here are built the Chinese way with 60-80-centimeter-thick clay walls and tiled roofs.

The market days in Dong Van left the biggest impression on me. Groups of H’Mong, Dao, Tay and other ethnic peoples in their colorful costumes walk from every corner of the mountains to the market to buy and sell. They arrive on foot with oxen, pigs, horses, chicken and every type of livestock and fowl. It’s exciting to watch the noisy bargaining at the trading area for animals and the tinkling sounds of spoons, pots and bowls when food sellers prepare for the market.

The market is a place where the Kinh people can meet and exchange culture with minority peoples.

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