Monday, September 27, 2010

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Rice done right

Tay Ninh Province is approximately 90 kilometers to the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.

The area remains a popular tourist destination thanks to its lush forests and serene pagodas. But, for most foodies, Tay Ninh’s major draw is its local delicacies. Between banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang (Trang Bang dew-wetted rice paper) and banh canh (a thick Vietnamese noodle made from a mixture of rice and tapioca flour), the province is worth the visit.

Banh trang phoi suong Trang Bang

Rice paper is everywhere in HCMC. It typically appears at the table in piles of store-bought rounds and eats with the consistency of a raincoat.

To offset this, some moisten the sheets with water and fill them with tasty bits of meat and fresh herbs.

Trang Bang District’s “dew-wetted rice paper,” however, is the result of a painstaking, seven-step process.

The special ingredient is the rice itself. Tay Ninh varietals are known for their delicate fragrance and the trick to making good paper is remaining true to the grain’s original flavor.

When cooks want to make the rice paper, the grains are soaked for two to three hours.

The wet grains are then mixed with a little salt and ground into a sort of paste.

The processed mush is then spread in two thin layers on a cloth that is hung over a cauldron full of boiling water. The mixture is then spread out over a bamboo grid and left to dry in the sun.

The resulting paper is grilled over a fire of peanut shells. The cooks use a shallow pan to cook the double-layered paper and sniff the resulting smoke to ensure the fragrance is not lost.

HCMC LOCATIONS:

Hoang Ty Restaurant850 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

Tel: (08) 3 899 8820

691 B Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Street, Binh Thanh District

(08) 3 898 8789

106 Cao Thang Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 833 2077

Banh canh Trang Bang441 Nguyen Tri Phuong Street, District 5

Tel: (08) 3 856 1268

180 Ly Thai To Street, District 3

Tel: (08) 3 832 2532

The paper is then left out overnight, to be moistened by the evening dew. Ideally, these famed rice paper makers will yield a wrap that is, at once, soft, tender and springy. Most importantly, the final product should still bear the smell of the original rice plant.

Pork is also a crucial ingredient in the dish, therefore, it must be chosen carefully. Tay Ninh favors lean cuts from the rump which is selected for its thin skin.

The meat is then paired with locally-grown fresh herbs like basil, peppermint, and chives. Locals from the district are known to throw in thin slices of mango bud and perilla. Add some strips of pickled carrot and Daikon and you’re almost there. But this roll is nothing without the nation’s famed sweet and sour dipping sauce - comprised of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, lime and chili.

It costs around VND90,000 for a portion which easily feeds two.

Banh canh Trang Bang

Another Tay Ninh favorite is the famed banh canh Trang Bang (thick noodle soup with pork hock). The dish is comprised of a bowl of delicious bone broth filled with springy noodles, and spiced fish sauce.

A fatty and chewy smoked ham hock is plopped down in the center of the dish, which can intimidate some foreign eaters.

Ham hocks in the New World are typically smoked, stewed and discarded. But here in Vietnam, they are chewed gnawed and sucked clean of marrow.

Thick skinned, and chock full of tasty tendons, the hock should be tacked with a combination of spoon and pork chops. Just eat it! You won’t be sorry.

Thanks to a little help from the tapioca flour, the chewy banh canh noodles will have absorbed a good deal of that divine swine flavor.

A bowl of banh canh costs between VND27,000–40,000 depending on where you’re dining.

Related Articles

Built to last

The Ho Dynasty’s extremely short tenure is marked by long-standing achievements including a citadel that still stands, six centuries later



The southern entrance of the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407)’s citadel with three gates in Thanh Hoa Province

The Ho Dynasty was founded in 1400 after Ho Quy Ly (1336-1407), the highest-ranking general of the Tran Dynasty, dethroned King Tran Thieu De and declared himself the new emperor. However, his reign proved short-lived when China’s Ming Dynasty invaded and took over the country in 1407.

Although Ly has been heavily criticized for overthrowing the Tran Dynasty and letting China dominate the country again after 500 years of independence, several reforms that he initiated during his eight-year reign have stood the test of time, including the circulation of paper money.

He is also said to have brought new ideas to the construction of the Tay Do (Western Capital) citadel, in present-day Thanh Hoa Province, where he placed the central government.

The citadel is considered a “miracle of labor”, as it was built manually in just three months. After more than 600 years, the monument still stands, and the mystery of how it was built still endures.

Built with green block granite, the citadel was trapezoidal while other citadels until then were built of bricks and clay earth and bricks and were hexagon shaped.

GETTING THERE

By motorbike or car:
From Thanh Hoa Town, go northeast along the National Way No. 45 for about 43 kilometers.
Or, from Ha Trung District, go along National Way No. 217 to Vinh Loc District which is about 20 kilometers away.

By bus:
Buses to the citadel are available on both the national ways from Thanh Hoa Town.
Ticket prices: VND10,000 (US$0.51) each person.

For accommodation: Tay Ho Hotel (Phone: 037.352 2444) – Vinh Loc District’s Guest House (Mobile: Mr. Vu Manh Hien 091 209 3569)

To Thanh Hoa Town: A four-hour train journey from the Hanoi railway station; and you can get there by car, bus or even motorbike on National Highway No.1.



Round stones believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks to build the citadel hundreds of years ago

The rocks, some of which are 1.3 meters high and 1.59 meters wide, were brought from many places by road or by river. How the work was done remains a mystery.

The citadel has an average height of between five and six meters, with some points reaching ten meters. Its north-south and east-west lengths are 870.5 meters 883.5 meters respectively. It has entrances on all sides, but the main one in the south, with the biggest of its three grates stretching 5.82 meters wide.

Historic documents show that Ly ordered that the citadel be built in 1397, and then coerced Kinh Tran Dieu De to move the capital from Thang Long (now Hanoi).

Three years later, he dethroned the king and set up his own court at the citadel, which has been praised by historians for its good geographical location, as it is backed by three mountains and has two rivers flowing through it.

Inside the citadel there once were palaces comparable to Thang Long’s, but all of them were abandoned and destroyed when Ly was captured and taken prisoner by Ming troops.

In recent years, the old citadel has been opened to tourists who can either make it a destination on its own or as part of a package tour that links different destinations, like Sam Son – Ho Dynasty citadel – Cam Luong Spring – Lam Kinh.

Among the interesting artifacts at the citadel are round stones that are believed to have been used as levers to move giant granite blocks hundreds of years ago.

As at other Vietnamese destinations, local culinary specialties are on offer. In Vinh Loc District, where the citadel is located, che lam and banh rang bua - different varieties of rice cake, are worth trying.

Related Articles