Showing posts with label Nhon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nhon. Show all posts

Monday, September 27, 2010

The birdnest caves of Yen Island

Yen Island in Quy Nhon City where the swifts build the nests that make birds nest soup Photo: Vietnam+
From the central coast city of Quy Nhon, the towering cliffs of Yen Island look like a giant dinosaur defending the city from storms and heavy seas.

The picturesque island, which is also called Phuong Mai Peninsula, is famous for its cliffs and caves where birds build the nests used in the much-prized health-giving birds’ nest soup.

To visit the island in Nhon Ly Commune, Quy Nhon City take a two hour boat from the wharf on Tan Islet in Hai Cang Ward. The long journey will be rewarded when you see the caves, ten thousands of years old and stone cliffs rising vertically from the waves. The floors of the caves are large but strewn with rocks making it the perfect place for swallows to make their nests.

Once inside the caves you will be overawed by their size of the interior. The bird nests are everywhere, strung about in chains. The mothers feed their hungry young and fan them with their wings, while the little ones chirp loudly. The sounds of the birds, the dripping of water and the waves below are amazing.

Nguyen Hong Van, director of the management and exploitation board of birds’ nests in Binh Dinh Province, said that there are 30 caves on Yen Island, mainly located in two villages of Nhon Hai and Nhon Ly. In small caves such as Rung Cao, Doi, Ba Nghe, Can and Ham Xe, every year, people collect from 100 to 300 bird nests. For the large caves such as Ca, Doi Trong, Doi Ngoai, Luong and Kho, especially, the caves whose mouths open toward the East or Southeast, that are cool and airy and have fresh water dripping from the ceiling, locals can collect 14,000 to 15,000 bird nests per year.

In spring when the weather becomes warmer, visitors can see flocks of birds filling the sky. To take the nests from the walls of the cliff and from the cave ceilings, people build bamboo scaffolds often using them like bridges. Some caves are very high so that people use up to 300 lengths of bamboo to make each scaffold that may be five lengths of bamboo tall to reach the ceiling. The way to take the nest is very meticulous. For a nest that is out of reach, people use a stick with a nail on the top for a hook. In the dry weather, before taking the nests, the locals inject water into it to soften it and avoid it breaking.

The harvest season starts from April in the lunar calendar as the breeding season is lunar January and February. In lunar April they take the first harvest. The second harvest starts when the nestlings become strong enough to fly. People can collect a few nests in the third harvest stage which has the best quality nests.

The island also has many historical and cultural relics dating from the Cham era to Nguyen Dynasty such as Phat Loi Pagoda with its mysterious Cham statue, Tam Hoa Mountain, the site of Tay Son troop’s glorious victory in the eighteen century and Ho Ky Fortress.

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Thursday, September 16, 2010

Quy Nhon: Land of tragic love and poetry

Stone egg beach with Quy Nhon City in the background
Ghenh Rang, 3km south of the poetic Quy Nhon City, has some of the most fantastic vermilion twilight skies in the country.

From the entrance for a fee of VND6,000, you can head down the slope for 150 meters to get to the Ghenh Rang Tourist Area.

The grave of poet Han Mac Tu who was inspired by the landscapes of Quy Nhon - Photos: Dang Hoang Tham
The path to Ghenh Rang has flowers like wild orchids, acacias and daisies. After descending the mossy stone steps, Ghenh Rang Beach will appear.

When the water is calm and clear, you can see the pebbles on the bottom, which is why people also call the beach Bai Da Trung (Stone Egg Beach). 

The beach is scattered with big rocks. When the wind starts to chop up the sea, the waves crash on the rocks sending up clouds of spray.  A fresh water stream from springs in the hills comes out between the rocks.

Especially striking on the beach are giant rocks - one looks like a human face, another like a lion heading out to the sea. A large rock is named Vong Phu (Waiting for her Husband).

Near the stony beach is Queen Beach where Queen Nam Phuong, wife of Bao Dai King, the last king of Vietnam, would bath and relax in the early 19th century.

The path to Ghenh Rang passes by the modest grave of poet Han Mac Tu. The grave lies at the mountain’s foot. Tourists should not forget to burn incense for the sensitive poet who suffered leprosy alone. Visitors may feel pity for the miserable life of this talented poet. Unlike the final years of his life, the grave all the year round is drenched in sunlight, clouds, winds, moonlight and the murmurs of the sea.

The site is associated with a folklore about a love of a beautiful girl for a poor village boy. But they are separated when an evil mandarin seeks to marry her and orders the boy go to war. The girl runs away to Vung Chua Mountain but the evil mandarin and his henchmen follow her, and almost catch her, except a monsoon causes the mountain to crack open, creating a stream called Suoi Tien (Fairy Stream).

The boy crosses the sea to find his true love and finally they meet and vanish in the stream.

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