Con Dao from hell to heaven

A local woman waits for her husband’s fishing boat to return at dawn

One rainy November day in Saigon, with news of floods in the Central, I had a desire to explore something new. I decided to risk bad weather and backpack to Con Dao. 

From Tan Son Nhat International Airport it’s only half an hour on the plane to Co Ong or Con Son Airport. It’s mid-afternoon, but the weather is mild with a gentle sea breeze. The driver from Saigon Con Dao Resort picks me up with a friendly smile and we go to the resort, 12km from the airport. One thing surprises me about this resort - one side faces the sea but the old prison, Phu Son, is behind it. It was a little bit unnerving. When visiting Con Dao, don’t forget to visit the historical sites, the jails where revolutionary fighters against the French and the U.S colonialists were incarcerated and tortured. A tour guide tells me there are eight prisons including Phu Hai, Phu Son and Phu Tuong.

I spend all afternoon to visit the jail system in Con Dao and go to Hang Duong cemetery to burn incense for the dead. Over 20,000 prisoners are buried at the 19-hectare cemetery including the tombs of famous patriots Vo Thi Sau, Le Hong Phong, and Nguyen An Ninh. 

Tourists visit Con Dao’s notorious tiger cages at Phu Tuong prison - Photos: Tuong Vi

Con Dao has passed the 113 years where it was known as “Hell on earth”, to be transformed into something quite different – a peaceful archipelago surrounded by sea. It is now called “Heaven of the sea” or “The pearl in the middle of the ocean”.

A district of Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Con Dao is 230km from HCMC. The coastline is still largely undeveloped especially on the beaches of An Hai, Nhat, Dam Trau, Lo Voi or Ong Dung. As darkness comes, I sit at a street café overlooking the historical Quay 914 built by the French where some people are fishing for cuttlefish.

The sun rises at 6a.m. sparkling like pearls on the ocean. A new day has come, and the fishing boats are ready to head to sea.

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Life’s slow rhythm in Thi Tuong Lagoon

Thi Tuong Lagoon in Ca Mau Province - Photo: Phuong Kieu

Thi Tuong Lagoon, which spans the two districts of Cai Nuoc and Tran Van Thoi in the Mekong Delta province of Ca Mau, offers a slice of quiet rural life to tourists.

The lagoon covers about 700 hectares, is about 10 kilometers long and two  kilometers wide. It is divided into three parts - Dam Trong (Inside Lagoon), Dam Giua (Middle Lagoon) and Dam Ngoai (Outside Lagoon)

Dam Giua is the biggest part of the lake. The stilted houses of many shrimp farmers sit out on the lake’s surface while the surrounding shores of the lake are lined with water coconuts.

Early mornings at the lagoon are tranquil – the rays of the sun pierce the cover of palm leaves and the sapphire water that stretches for miles is as smooth as glass. Everything is silent except for the songs of birds.

Most of the people that live around Thi Tuong Lagoon have no idea about restaurants, resorts or entertainment areas. So it’s not the place to visit if you expect four star hotel doormen and modern facilities. But it is an Eden for nature enthusiasts. When you experience a visit to a stilt house on the lagoon you will feel the pace of life slow to a crawl.

The stilt houses are linked by old wooden gangways, that don’t look too safe, but when the friendly locals make it look easy, it helps you overcome your fear. After a few teas or wines the people that live in these stilt houses can tell some funny stories too and share about local customs. Or you can join them to go fishing.

The lagoon is named after Miss Tuong, one of pioneers of the area.

At night, by the light of the flickering oil lamp, hearing the sounds of crickets and insects and sitting together enjoying a meal made from the afternoon’s catch, you might imagine for a moment what it would be like to switch places with your host.

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