Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts

Friday, January 28, 2011

Con Dao in spring

A foreign tourist lies on Dam Trau Beach in Con Dao - Photo: Mong Binh
The white and pink peach blossoms in Con Dao signal the beginning of spring and the market in town is vibrant with floral colors.

Spring is the windy season in Con Dao, the archipelago off the southern province of Ba Ria-Vung Tau. Strong winds increase the swell. The ocean is full of white caps and the crashing waves send white water high up the island’s many cliff faces. There are also havens for visitors to swim in the turquoise, calm sea.

Dam Trau Beach is one of the protected beaches on Con Dao, where locals and foreign tourists opt for relaxing strolls, rests and camping. This yellow-sand beach earned its name from an island legend about two lovers. The girl in the doomed love affair, Mai Thi Trau, committed suicide from the cliffs because she couldn’t tie the knot with the man she loved, who was revealed by her father to be her half-brother.

The love story has a sad ending, but a trip to Dam Trau Beach will certainly end in happiness for nature lovers. The small sandy bay is perfect for sunbathing, long walks and exploring the black cliffs that stretch into the water.

The cliffs divide Dam Trau Beach into two parts. The furthest beach from the road can be reached best at low tide. The tree-lined beach has a fresh water stream shadowed by a giant tropical almond tree whose leaves have turned red.

Red-leaved almond trees also line the esplanade and many of the streets in the sleepy little town on Con Dao. Most of them were planted over 100 years ago. 

The best time to tour Con Dao is summertime when the sea and the weather are calm, but a visit to the archipelago in the windy season promises a lot of excitement.

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Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Surf’s up on Malibu Beach in Mui Ne

A longboarder surfs at Mui Ne’s Malibu Beach also known by Vietnam locals as Ghan Beach - Photo: Chiga Balazsd
I had two of my best surfs so far in Vietnam over Christmas on the back beach at Mui Ne also known as Malibu Beach.

The surf on Christmas Day and Christmas Eve had three foot sets with some good rides, both lefts and rights. It was slightly bigger down the south end of Malibu Beach near the No Mad kitesurfing camp, but it was glassier down further near the resorts, which was particularly good. Boxing Day was reportedly excellent as well.

December has swung the wind from the South to the North bringing the wind-swell onto the east-facing Malibu beach. The front beach at Mui Ne has very little surf this time of year. The website, forecasts.swellwatch.com, demonstrates really well where the wind and swell are coming from. For another tip to find secret spots to surf in Vietnam  look at Google Earth.

It’s best to go around sunrise before the wind picks up at 10am when it starts to get blown out.

I got my hands on a motorbike with a board rack, which was a great score, so I could cruise along the beach and choose the best peak. Otherwise I recommend you get a taxi or a xe om (motorbike taxi) and hold your board under your arm. If you get in and out of Malibu Beach before 10 in the morning the wind is not going to be too much of a problem for carrying the board on the bike.

To get to Malibu Beach from the main resort strip, just head up to the fishing port and turn left at the roundabout at Mui Ne Town, then follow your nose.

I took my own board (borrowed actually) from Saigon on a Phuong Trang bus from De Tham Street. It’s an eight footer and truly if it was another inch longer it wouldn’t have fitted in the luggage compartment, so be mindful of that if you’ve got a longer board – you might need a bus with roof racks on top. It can be handy to have some octopus straps as well.

Surfing at Malibu Beach is nothing like Uluwatu in Bali or Nias in Sumatra or other legendary surf spots. It’s just a beach break but it’s much better than Vung Tau and I suspect more consistent this time of year. But it hasn’t been a good season for wind so far – leaving all the kite surfing schools in Mui Ne feeling a bit down.

It may not be Uluwatu but it’s definitely frontier Asia surfing with waves, coconut palm trees and fishermen in basket boats just beyond the break, which makes for an epic adventure.

If you don’t have a board and want to check out some local spots contact Chiga at 01265246650 or jagannathsurf@gmail.com. Or look at the website, zubakovf.com.

Chiga takes half day surfing safaris around Mui Ne for US$95.

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Friday, December 3, 2010

Postcard paradise

Bai Tru Beach on Hon Tre Islet in Nha Trang City - Photo: Dang Hoang Tham
Bai Tru Beach on Hon Tre Islet in Nha Trang City is one of the nicest beaches in Vietnam – a tropical paradise for tourists to enjoy.

To get to the islet, take a taxi to Cau Da Port and then take a cable car to Vinpearl Land at VND320,000 return. After playing some games at the Vinpearl Land such as outdoor games, 4D movies, water sports at Vinpearl Water Park and a visit to the bizarre marine creatures at Vinpearl Underwater World, it’s just a few steps more and your toes will be squeaking in the fine white sand of Bai Tru Beach.

The beach is like a postcard. There are lines of coconut trees leaning toward the sea, blinding white sand, azure water that is as flat as bathtub and bungalows under the shade of the palms. Get yourself an umbrella or lay back on a reed mat under the coconut palms and let Bai Tru help you forget your worries.

You can hire a motor boat and cruise around the island, even hire some diving equipment to go underwater and admire the reef.

If thrills are your thing, try the hot air balloon to take in an amazing panoramic view of the islet and Nha Trang City.

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Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Winter promotions at Victoria Hotels & Resorts

Get your glow back at Spa InterContinental

The pool at Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa. There’s plenty of extras for internet bookings - Photo: Courtesy of the Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa
The Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa and the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa are now offering winter promotions to customers.

From December 1 to 15, enjoy value added benefits for internet bookings at the Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa. Bookings made for Superior, Deluxe and Junior Suite category will enjoy a complimentary upgrade to the next available category plus one complimentary 60-minute body massage for two persons per stay. Suite bookings will be entitled to one complimentary set menu for two persons (without beverage). The resort will also lavish you with free mini-bar (one refill per day) and four pieces of laundry per day (not including dry cleaning) for all room types.

All benefits are available only through internet bookings at www.victoriahotels.asia, terms and conditions apply. For more information, contact resa.hoian@victoriahotels.asia .

The Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa offers an interesting package rate starting from only US$260++ per person until December 31. This includes a two night stay in a Superior room with breakfast for two and round trip tickets on board the Victoria Express Train in a superior cabin (fourth-berth sharing with others). Package is only available for departures on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. For more information and booking, contact resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

Spa InterContinental presents a special beauty package for the festive season. A ninety minute facial cleansing, massage and toning for VND1.8 million++/person till the end of December.

Gift vouchers for the ultimate indulgence are available. Contact  spa@icasianasaigon.com or call 3520 9999 to make a reservation or buy spa vouchers.

The InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung Street and Le Duan Boulevard, District 1, HCMC.

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Friday, November 26, 2010

The tragic love story of Dam Trau Beach

Dam Trau Beach is named after a village girl in a local legend - Photo: Tuong Vi
Dam Trau is a long deserted tropical beach on Con Dao Archipelago.

At one end is the Co Ong Airport runway where the occasional plane breaks the silence as it comes into land. At the other end is a rocky headland jutting into an azure sea. The white sandy beach is clean and backed by forested hills. It can be accessed from the road by a few rough tracks.

Tuan Anh, our tour guide tells us a sad love story about Dam Trau Beach where a clever, hardworking guy named Truc Van Cau who lived in Co Ong Village fell in love with a beautiful girl named Mai Thi Trau.

Everyone in the village thought they were a beautiful couple, until Cau’s father told him that Trau was actually Cau’s sister because the father had an affair with her mother many years prior. So the love was forbidden.

Knowing that they couldn’t love each other anymore, Cau left his village for a small island and lived there. People called this island Hon Cau (Cau Islet). Trau was pregnant with Cau’s child and she went to the cliffs where they used to meet and waited for him every day. Finally she committed suicide. The place where she died, people in Co Ong Village called Dam Trau Beach. Cau never returned and stayed on the island for the rest of his life.

A local saying goes, “Remember telling Cau, how far from Hon Cau to Dam Trau?”

The answer is 10km according to our tour guide.

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Wednesday, October 20, 2010

A quiet island get-away near Nha Trang

A view of Chuong Beach on Binh Ba island in Nha Trang City - Photo: Q. Vuong
The white sandy beaches and coral reefs of Binh Ba island are only a short motorbike and boat ride from Cam Ranh Township in the central coast province of Khanh Hoa.

The coral island presents a change of pace from the province’s bustling capital, the beach resort town of Nha Trang.

To get to the island, go to Cam Ranh bus station and take a motorbike taxi for VND10,000 to Ba Ngoi Wharf. From the wharf, there is a boat to Binh Ba at 10 a.m. for VND10,000 per person and VND5,000 per student. There are two boats that head back to the mainland - at 5 a.m. and 12 p.m.

Nom Beach is a quiet little stretch of smooth sand and very blue water. Along the beach are some rocks, where it is nice to sit and watch the waves. Locals use the beach in summer for bathing and often go there at night when the moon is full for small parties.

The path from Nom Beach to Chuong Beach passes wild flowers, colorful snails and rocky outcrops with small caves. If you take your snorkel and goggles to Chuong Beach, you can see many colorful corals in the sea. There are also a lot of bird nests on the island making it interesting for nature enthusiasts.

A short hike up the hill there are ruins of an old French military base. The top of the hill has beautiful sunset views.

Most of the island residents are fishermen. Shrimp is the main catch.

There are very few if any facilities for tourists on Binh Ba, so it’s important to prepare a good picnic lunch or take a tent if you want to stay the night. Otherwise you can eat at some small restaurants and ask one of the locals if you could stay the night. The beach, however, is a great place to camp and have a barbecue.

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Friday, October 15, 2010

Ca Na, voice of sea

Ca Na Beach in Ninh Thuan Province
Ca Na, about 30 kilometers from the Cham Towers in Phan Rang City in Ninh Thuan Province, is a land of sun, sand, sea and wild forest. The three kilometer long Ca Na Beach on National Highway 1A is the pride of the province’s coastline.

The beach that some say is the most beautiful beach in Vietnam, is renowned for its crystal blue bay backed by mountains.

The pagoda on Ca Na Mountain- Photos: Anh Viet
After lolling around in the tranquil sea you can prize oysters off the rocks at low tide to hold your own private sashimi party. The rocks can be slippery and sharp so it’s a good idea to wear some sand shoes.

On romantic night strolls under the full-moon, the sea glitters and the rocks appear like people sitting deep in thought.

You can also take a trek up the mountain to discover the wildlife and visit the pagoda. On the way up the mountain will also find fruit on the trees that you can eat. There are many large rocks in weird shapes like a human head, a lion, a Buddha and other animals.

Visitors to the province should taste bun cha ca (rice noodle soup with fish paste), one of popular breakfast dishes. Bun cha ca is served at almost all street-side shops and restaurants for only VND6,000.

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Friday, October 1, 2010

Tofu pudding on Phan Thiet beach

Vang, a tofu pudding vendor on Phan Thiet beach, serves a bowl of the sweet to customers - Photo: Tuong Vi
On the beach in Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province, we saw a woman approach shouldering a yoke with a large pot of tofu pudding and a basket of sauces and bowls.

In the South, tofu is called “tau hu nuoc duong” (tofu served with liquid sugar water) or douhua. In the North it is called “tao pho”. It is made from blended soya bean water and a little gypsum to thicken it.

The tofu pudding seller’s name was Nguyen Thi Vang. She told us that for the past 15 years she has woken up everyday at 3a.m. to cook the tofu that she vends along the beach until late in the evening.

She crouched under the yoke while her hand busied to spoon out layer after layer of the soft tofu into a small bowl. Then, she ladled on some sugar syrup with slices of ginger. In the south, the sellers also add some sweet coconut sauce. Tofu pudding is a popular cheap dessert of Vietnamese people at VND5,000 a bowl but it is full of protein, so the vendors are also popular with the tourists around town.

It varies in the three regions in Vietnam. In the North, it enjoyed warm in winter, cold with ice in summer and served with sugar and jasmine. In the Central, it is cooked with spicy ginger, sugar is optional, and the douhua pieces are too soft to retain any shape. In the South, it is served warm with ginger and coconut water, ginger is optional, and the douhua is firmer than in the North and the Central.

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Friday, September 17, 2010

Mui Ne waves: Enough to satisfy the surfer inside

Mui Ne is on the map as an Asian kite surfing mecca, but there’s a few waves left over for longboarders - Photo: Kinh Luan
Happy to say, I had a good surf recently in Mui Ne. This time of year there’s no rideable waves on the back beach there but I was told there’s some small swells on the front beach.

These swells last until October when the wind changes and favors early morning waves on the back beach.

I actually rode a monstrous sail board – well over ten foot long, almost too wide too paddle – and hard to turn. But what it lacked in maneuverability it made up in sheer speed and ease to get on the wave. As a result I hardly missed a single one that I went for and caught dozens of little two foot waves right to the beach.

Despite the sad amount of plastic bags in the water it was great to get wet and have a play on the board. I found these waves on a strip of beach near the terraces where the all the fishing boats dock at the northern end of the tourist strip. There is a decent beach there and I was able to get some quite long rides and even show a few Vietnamese teenagers how to do it – standing up on a surfboard the size of an oil tanker is not hard - even for beginners. They loved it.

I surfed early in the morning thinking that the waves would get blown out, so I better get in early. But it didn’t happen; I had a surf in the morning, and again in the afternoon, both high tide and low tide were ok.

As a keen longboarder from the Gold Coast in Australia, when I came to Vietnam I had no information about whether or not there was surf here so I left my eight footer in  a mate’s shed.

A few months after I arrived in 2007, I body-surfed some two foot waves on a sandbank in Vung Tau and judged it to be quite acceptable for a longboard. Unfortunately the closest thing to a malibu for hire on the beach was a tire tube or a cocktail, so the idea was shelved for a while until I scored a board off a mate of mine, who told me he’d had a few waves at Long Hai.

As it turns out there’s quite a history of surfing in Vung Tau, going back about 40 years and there’s even a surf shack up there and an online surf report called Vung Tau Beach Club on the Globalsurfers website. What’s great about Vung Tau is it is easy to get to on the hydrofoil with the surfboard. From Saigon I can go there for a morning surf and be back in the afternoon. A few crabs, a few waves and I’m a happy chappy.

Mui Ne is not so easy to get to. It’s only 200km but it’s not Australia so there’s no way you can do it in two hours. The quickest I could manage was four and a half hours on the motorbike. There are a few decent long boards for rent at Jibes restaurant but I didn’t see any motorbikes for rent with board racks like you can get in Bali, so it’s got to be taxis or brave the wind on the back of a xe om with a nine footer poking out front and back.

Another way to get there that I was recommended by someone – head to Mien Dong bus station in Binh Thanh district at about 3 a.m. (you can chuck the board in the luggage compartment underneath). Catch a bus and wake up in Mui Ne. It’s probably a bit safer than fanging a 100cc step-through motorbike along Hanoi Highway and has the added advantage of being able to take your own board.

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Thursday, September 16, 2010

Mui Ne waves: Enough to satisfy the surfer inside

Mui Ne is on the map as an Asian kite surfing mecca, but there’s a few waves left over for longboarders - Photo: Kinh Luan
Happy to say, I had a good surf recently in Mui Ne. This time of year there’s no rideable waves on the back beach there but I was told there’s some small swells on the front beach.

These swells last until October when the wind changes and favors early morning waves on the back beach.

I actually rode a monstrous sail board – well over ten foot long, almost too wide too paddle – and hard to turn. But what it lacked in maneuverability it made up in sheer speed and ease to get on the wave. As a result I hardly missed a single one that I went for and caught dozens of little two foot waves right to the beach.

Despite the sad amount of plastic bags in the water it was great to get wet and have a play on the board. I found these waves on a strip of beach near the terraces where the all the fishing boats dock at the northern end of the tourist strip. There is a decent beach there and I was able to get some quite long rides and even show a few Vietnamese teenagers how to do it – standing up on a surfboard the size of an oil tanker is not hard - even for beginners. They loved it.

I surfed early in the morning thinking that the waves would get blown out, so I better get in early. But it didn’t happen; I had a surf in the morning, and again in the afternoon, both high tide and low tide were ok.

As a keen longboarder from the Gold Coast in Australia, when I came to Vietnam I had no information about whether or not there was surf here so I left my eight footer in  a mate’s shed.

A few months after I arrived in 2007, I body-surfed some two foot waves on a sandbank in Vung Tau and judged it to be quite acceptable for a longboard. Unfortunately the closest thing to a malibu for hire on the beach was a tire tube or a cocktail, so the idea was shelved for a while until I scored a board off a mate of mine, who told me he’d had a few waves at Long Hai.

As it turns out there’s quite a history of surfing in Vung Tau, going back about 40 years and there’s even a surf shack up there and an online surf report called Vung Tau Beach Club on the Globalsurfers website. What’s great about Vung Tau is it is easy to get to on the hydrofoil with the surfboard. From Saigon I can go there for a morning surf and be back in the afternoon. A few crabs, a few waves and I’m a happy chappy.

Mui Ne is not so easy to get to. It’s only 200km but it’s not Australia so there’s no way you can do it in two hours. The quickest I could manage was four and a half hours on the motorbike. There are a few decent long boards for rent at Jibes restaurant but I didn’t see any motorbikes for rent with board racks like you can get in Bali, so it’s got to be taxis or brave the wind on the back of a xe om with a nine footer poking out front and back.

Another way to get there that I was recommended by someone – head to Mien Dong bus station in Binh Thanh district at about 3 a.m. (you can chuck the board in the luggage compartment underneath). Catch a bus and wake up in Mui Ne. It’s probably a bit safer than fanging a 100cc step-through motorbike along Hanoi Highway and has the added advantage of being able to take your own board.

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Quy Nhon: Land of tragic love and poetry

Stone egg beach with Quy Nhon City in the background
Ghenh Rang, 3km south of the poetic Quy Nhon City, has some of the most fantastic vermilion twilight skies in the country.

From the entrance for a fee of VND6,000, you can head down the slope for 150 meters to get to the Ghenh Rang Tourist Area.

The grave of poet Han Mac Tu who was inspired by the landscapes of Quy Nhon - Photos: Dang Hoang Tham
The path to Ghenh Rang has flowers like wild orchids, acacias and daisies. After descending the mossy stone steps, Ghenh Rang Beach will appear.

When the water is calm and clear, you can see the pebbles on the bottom, which is why people also call the beach Bai Da Trung (Stone Egg Beach). 

The beach is scattered with big rocks. When the wind starts to chop up the sea, the waves crash on the rocks sending up clouds of spray.  A fresh water stream from springs in the hills comes out between the rocks.

Especially striking on the beach are giant rocks - one looks like a human face, another like a lion heading out to the sea. A large rock is named Vong Phu (Waiting for her Husband).

Near the stony beach is Queen Beach where Queen Nam Phuong, wife of Bao Dai King, the last king of Vietnam, would bath and relax in the early 19th century.

The path to Ghenh Rang passes by the modest grave of poet Han Mac Tu. The grave lies at the mountain’s foot. Tourists should not forget to burn incense for the sensitive poet who suffered leprosy alone. Visitors may feel pity for the miserable life of this talented poet. Unlike the final years of his life, the grave all the year round is drenched in sunlight, clouds, winds, moonlight and the murmurs of the sea.

The site is associated with a folklore about a love of a beautiful girl for a poor village boy. But they are separated when an evil mandarin seeks to marry her and orders the boy go to war. The girl runs away to Vung Chua Mountain but the evil mandarin and his henchmen follow her, and almost catch her, except a monsoon causes the mountain to crack open, creating a stream called Suoi Tien (Fairy Stream).

The boy crosses the sea to find his true love and finally they meet and vanish in the stream.

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